Kyoto at night is a dramatic contrast - the modern quarters with grand boulevards full of light and hustle 'n bustle, and then Gion the oldest part of the city with it's dimly lit narrow streets, an atmospheric maze of mysterious old wooden buildings, and very little to orientate the non Japanese speaking visitor.
We encounter a couple of Geishas, they are beautiful, and scurry quickly between private residences and invitation only establishments. And we encounter the Geisha-crazed photographers who hang paparazzi-like on street corners, photographing them whenever they can and without asking permission. They may as well carry giant butterfly nets. There's something unsavory about those guys. In this light their flash bulbs hurt my eyes.
We find the only restaurant in Gion with English menus but arrive too late. We are instantly ushered out and escorted away from the lovely old town. We have no idea where we're being taken. Our usher speaks no English. Extreme hunger compels us to go completely against our street-wise instincts. We keep following and are lead across main street into an area clearly aimed at Westerners and anyone else looking to pick up a whore or two.
It is a disappointing experience. Are we being stereotyped? Is our usher just trying to find us some good food? We end up in a thoroughly safe dull little restaurant, where the staff adore bland 80s MOR. The food however is delicious.
Thought
How radically different our experience would have been if we had ventured out an hour earlier and had been able to speak at least O-Level Japanese. It can be very frustrating to be an outsider in Japan. Much of what seems to be quintessentially Japanese is accessible only by those with an invitation. I hope our guides can help us more on this. We crave the authentic experience and be as respectful as we can but we will always be Gaijin.
No comments:
Post a Comment