Sun, 31 Aug '08 - How to wear traditional Japanese clothing

After climbing into tight white cotton breeches and a crewneck vest we take it in turns to be dressed by the junior costumier. First a three-quarter length unbleached cheesecloth tunic top secured at the waste with a self-fabric tie. 

Over this goes a long wide sleeved kimono (embroidered with round linear maze motifs). The kimono material is shot ‘silk’ and is lined in a contrasting colour. Our dresser ties the kimono at the waist with a brightly coloured wide belt or Obi. 

Finally one climbs into a lustrous grey pleated skirt, again tied at the waist, over the obi, in a ceremonial bow. Add to this black socks separated at the big toe (called tabi), and block wooden sandals or 'geta'… It’s hot wearing all these layers. The shoes prevent extreme or fast movement. The tightness at the waist and multiple layers around the legs force one to adopt a slow upright formality. We are given two samurai swords each (one full sized, the other a little shorter and dagger like). 

After our studio photoshoot (comprising full length formal pose with long sword and action shot close up), we head onto the streets of Gion (Kyoto’s oldest quarter). 

We are instantly surrounded by Japanese people. We do our best to look distinguished and not laugh. John folds his arms across his chest and some of them catch a glimpse of his tattoo. I growl at a young Japanese girl who’s photographing me furiously. She looks frightened for a split second then giggles. This feels amazing. These costumes still hold an intimidatory power for the Japanese (even when being worn by two tired and sweaty gaijans). Anyway spend as long as we can posing on among the ancient buildings and traditional craft boutiques. Only our impending Shinkanzen to Tokyo forces us to deshabille.

Thought
Traditional Japanesze forms still have incredible power. Traditional Japanese male costume does include a number of items that are associated to women’s clothing in the west (such as the pleated skirt) but when being worn and when seen as a whole they do not feel feminine. This clothing is deliberately styled to influence the posture and impress and intimidate onlookers in equal measure. It is an incredibly beautiful vision of formal masculinity.