Sat, 30 Aug '08 - Sanjūsangen-dō

For these two severely jetlagged visitors the calming effect of this temple was instant: As expected the atmosphere is hushed and reverential. I detect a sense of purpose although I can’t put a name to it… something focused, a kind of simplicity. After a minute or two this ambience is infusing me. It is an initially calming place.

As we move through the entrance hall and into the oldest part of the temple I turn a corner and am overwhelmed by the sheer number of gold statues or ‘Kannon’. The simple geometry of the architecture creates a dramatic perspective along the length of the building, which leads my eye along the display. This is the moment where I first appreciate the power of ancient Japan.

The 1000 Kannon seem to emphasise stillness and contemplation, and although each one is unique the differences are subtle. In stark contrast, the blackened sculptures in the foreground are carved to suggest movement and feature complex poses and animated expressions. All too easily I imagine them coming to life. Each one has a story and personifies a tenet. I feel their glassy eyes challenge me directly.

I want to list the components parts of this experience so as to understand this feeling:

Shoes off – you can feel more texture through the soles of your feet – through the soles of your feel..? Somehow it’s transmitted up through you.

The age, design and materials of physical surroundings are unlike any modern building.

The smell of incense builds as you move forward. It’s a bit dusty. You can see smoke trails rising. Sounds are muffled. Light is diffused through gridded paper screens. There is no

artificial light. There are many shadows.

We move silently. At one point I need to hang on to John for a second. I feel a bit floaty with the perfume and the tiredness and the voices speaking languages I don’t understand.

The fabric of the building is wooden and looks incredibly strong. The relationship of scale to my body has an effect in itself. I measure each post and beam against the girth of my own frame.

All of my senses are stimulated in an enjoyable and harmonious manner. But it’s not with out its edge. I don’t understand everything and I’m ‘intuiting’ a percentage of what’s going on. This all combines to form a powerful feeling that dominates you in that moment, and lingers with you afterwards.

Post script

Umm... and then there's the Coke benches positioned within the spiritual compound and offering prime views of the temple. We joke about finding a McDonalds in the little Shinto temple that's hidden away in the corner... Our guide explains that Japan's religious tolerance and modern cultural openness sometimes have a downside...